Hi there, my name is Simon and I love photography. In “real” life, I’m a lawyer living in the London suburbs, with a small son and an ever tolerant partner…
This blog is a way of doing something with photos and: (i) commenting on or reviewing certain cameras, lenses and related equipment; and (ii) recording and commenting on events and stories I come across. Thanks for looking.
Hello Simon, it’s Daniel Corsini. You took a photo of me playing guitar for the MOLPresents gigs comp. I was wondering if I could have your permission to use the photo on social media sites? If that’s ok wiht you then let me know how you’d like me to credit the photo. Thanks.
I remember, no worries, fine with you using the photo on social media, but please could you indicate that it’s Copyright 2012 Simon Goldsworthy and include a link to my blog?
Something like “© 2012 Simon Goldsworthy – https://sgoldswoblog.wordpress.com/2012/08/09/daniel-corsini/” should do it.
If you don’t want to link to the exact page or you prefer the post with the other shot of you I took I’m fine for the link to point to the front page of my blog or to the other post, whatever you prefer. I’m also fine if you want to use a shortlink.
thanks! will do!
Great photos on your site. I’m on the verge of buying a new micro 4/3 and I’ve narrowed it down to the EM-5 and GH3. As I would like to shoot sports and landscapes (low light, evening shots), what is your take on which camera is better in lower lighting situations? My second question pertains to IBIS versus OIS. As I’m starting from scratch with no lenses, I’m aware of the IBIS advantage is that it will work with most lenses without in lens stabilization. Which do you think is superior, Olympus IBIS or Panasonic OIS?
Thanks for your insight and assistance,
A very difficult question to answer! First up, in the conditions you would be shooting in it absolutely makes sense to shoot with stabilisation.
It always used to be the case that lens based stabilisation mechanisms (OIS) were superior to in body stabiliation (IBIS). Then Olympus came up with the E-M5 and changed the game with its five axis stabilisation.
The E-M5 was rated as superior to the stabilisation in many of the earlier panny lenses and obviously applied to all lenses. However, the stabilisation in the panny 12-35 and the 35-100 lenses are at least as good if not better. Remember that you need to double the focal lenght of lenses for equivalence with a full frame SLR lens.
The other game changing variable to bear in mind is the electronic shutter available on the G5 and GH3 which eliminates “shutter shock” associated blur. So you may find that the best stabilisation available is via OIS with particular lenses on the GH3 or G5 with the electronic shutter turned on (note the E-M5 doesn’t have an electronic shutter). The broadest stabilisation is likely provided through the E-M5 IBIS, because it applies to every lens.
I think distance comes into play here as well. The brightest long lens available (natively) is the panny 35-100mm lens. Beyond that you would need the Oly 75-300 or the Panny 100-300. Neither of these long lenses is particularly fast, but probably the best combination in low light at the 300mm length is the E-M5 with the Panny 100-300 (because its slightly brighter at the long end).
Personally, since I shoot mainly in daylight I prefer the GH3 and that would be a fine choice paired with the 35-100mm, but I suspect the E-M5 is the better or more flexible choice for the long end.
I hope that helps!
Thanks, Simon. That is some great insight, I appreciate your advice. I’ll take it under advisement and make a decision very soon.
Can you please tell me how to make the photo I’ve just taken appear on the large screen? I can’t seem to find any help in the owners manual. I’m used to taking a photo with my Nikon and immediately looking at it on the large LCD. Many thanks!
Jim, happy to help but which camera do you own?
I believe you have an OM-D and X100s (in addition to a bunch of other gear). Any thoughts for an OM-D owner who is contemplating buying the X100s based on the incredibly glowing reviews seen pretty much everywhere? I have great Oly and Panny m4/3 lenses, including the 17/1.8, PL 25, 45, and 75 primes. Just a case of G.A.S. or do you see a rational reason for buying the Fuji? I love the E-M5 and 17/1.8 combo for street and low light, but am really intrigued by the X100s.
A really difficult one! In honesty, my head would say stick with your E-M5. Personally I really like the combination with the 17 F1.8 Oly lens and it has very attractive bokeh, though it isn’t as sharp as the Panny 20mm. However, my heart would say get the X100S. The X100S is a step above in image quality. The X100S produces results that are marvellously three dimensional. The VF is a thing of beauty too – and wonderfully useful. It’s so good at high ISO that you can almost ignore ISO and just crank up the shutter speed for sharp results. Oddly it also takes up less space than a ILC by virtue of its (very small) fixed lens.
However, the X100S is at its best at F4, and is very soft at F2. It’s a lens sensor combination that is best for sharpness, not blurred out of focus backgrounds. Personally I would say try out the X100S at a shop and see what you make of it. I hope that helps!
Thanks for your advice. You summed it up quite well. Head says stick with the great E-M5 and 17/1.8 combo, heart says supplement with the X100S. I’m really torn and have pretty much decided to table the decision for a month and see if I still have the urge to pull the trigger on the X100S in 30 days. Since it’s out of stock everywhere anyway, I certainly have the time to decide.
The E-M5 is such a great camera that can give me the same 35 mm FOV along with a bunch of other amazing primes and some useful zooms. Additionally, I have found that I love shooting from the hip with the flip-out screen. That’s not just for being discreet on the street, but I find that if I’m hanging out with family and friends, as soon as I pull the camera up to my eye, most people tend tense up. Keeping the camera lower, away from my eyes keeps them at ease. I’m sure I can get the feel of shooting “blind” with the X100S, but if one of the great selling points is the dual VF, it kind of defeats the purpose.
Oh well, nice to have so many choices these days.
Hi Simon, Found your blog whilst reading the 2youit 12mm zeiss reviews. I am after a wide for my xpro1. i have a 15mm zeiss for my 5dmkii so something small for the xpro1 would be great. if you were to pick one, the 12 or the 14 which would it be? im after sharpness and minimum distortion.
I don’t think it’s as simple as which is better and I think this turns on which features are more important to you.
If you assess the 12 and 14 side by side, they have different strengths. 12 is very different from 14 is terms of field of view and perspective distortion (e.g. I might want the 12 for wider landscape shots but the 14 for narrower architecture shots). The 14 has more even sharpness and is optically corrected (big tick) but conversely seems a tad less sharp in the centre and has lower contrast and saturation. In fact, the 14 may not actually be less sharp at all, it may just look that way based on the better contrast and saturation from the 12. By default the colours (and therefore colour detail) from the 14 are more muted than the 12. The 12 is wider, which is more relevant for landscapes. I would always want wider lenses for seascapes and landscapes, particularly where I would shoot at F7.1 or narrower. For photography at night (which is inevitably shot at wider apertures), the Fuji is better (because its corners are sharper wide open). For true street photography the Fuji is better (because it allows for zone focus).
So ask yourself what of the above features you really want. I have no hesitation if the priority is the widest possible lens in recommending the Zeiss. I also have no hesitation if the difference in focal length isn’t an issue, in recommending the Fuji. Both are great lenses and I’m happy that I don’t have to choose.
Hi simon, I am after a good wide for mt xpro1. image sharpness and minium distortion is a must. using for architecture and landscape. which would you have 12mm or 14mm?
seems like the fuji might tick my boxes. have you had any issue with the aperture ring on the zeiss. read somewhere that it could be bit loose and prone to rotating easily. I have a 15mm zeiss for canon 5dii, so I think the 14 will compliment well.
The aperture ring on the Zeiss 12mm is a little looser than you get on the Fuji 14mm. That can lead to unintended changes in aperture. That said, it’s still pretty good in use – the rubber coating allows for more precise adjustment.
You took some cracking photos of us dancing at Forty Hall on 21st July 2013 and I was wondering if we could use some on our website? If so, please advise regarding copyright.
Absolutely fine with me, my only ask is that you include somewhere on the page that includes the photos “© 2013 Simon Goldsworthy”. if you are looking for all of the photos I took at Forty Hall there is a set on Flickr here. You should be able to link to or download 1600 width versions from Flickr, If you need larger than that let me know.
Pingback: The Fuji XE1 the City Walker | Ledesma Photography
Pingback: The City Walker – Ledesma Photography
hello Simon, nice reading your blog.
I like the way you review Leica gears, and are you still working as a lawyer beside shooting photos?
Hi Gunston, thank you! Yes, I’m still a lawyer for my sins. All the best, Simon
Excellent pictures!! I stumble your blog when reading Steve Huff Photos. I am a retired engineer and like taking photos.